How to Use Sequins in Your Sewing Projects

Quick Answer

To sew with sequins successfully, choose a sequin fabric that suits your project, use the right needle and thread, and secure sequins before sewing to prevent slipping. Always test on scraps to avoid damaging your machine or fabric.

Sequins add instant glamour to bags, garments, and accessories, but they can be tricky to sew. Unlike regular fabric, sequins are stiff, slippery, and prone to breaking needles. However, with the right preparation and techniques, you can create stunning sequin projects without frustration.

This guide covers the essentials of working with sequins, from selecting the best sequin fabric for your needs to step-by-step sewing methods. Whether you're adding a sparkle to a handbag or crafting a festive top, these tips will help you achieve professional results.

Choosing the Right Sequin Fabric

The first step in any sequin project is selecting the right sequin fabric. Sequin fabrics come in various forms: some have sequins sewn onto a mesh base, others are glued, and some are applied in rows or overlapping patterns. The base fabric matters because it affects drape, weight, and sewability. For bags and structured accessories, a sturdier base like vinyl or cork is a better choice, while for garments, a softer mesh sequin fabric works well.

Consider the size and density of the sequins. Large, widely spaced sequins are easier to sew through and remove if needed. Dense, overlapping sequins can be beautiful but require more preparation. If you're new to sewing sequins, start with a fabric that has a visible base and moderate sequin coverage. Also, think about the color and finish: metallic sequins reflect light, while matte or frosted finishes offer a subtler shimmer.

• Test your sequin fabric by sewing a sample to see how it behaves on your machine.

Essential Tools and Notions

Having the right tools makes a huge difference when sewing sequins. Use a sharp needle designed for heavy or synthetic fabrics, such as a size 90/14 or 100/16. A walking foot or Teflon foot can help feed the fabric evenly and prevent sticking. Polyester thread is a good choice because it's strong and flexible. You may also want a seam ripper to remove sequins from seam allowances, and a pair of small scissors to trim sequin edges.

A rotary cutter is invaluable for cutting sequin fabric. It glides over the sequins without pulling or distorting them, unlike scissors which can snag. A self-healing mat and a clear ruler help you make precise cuts. If you're cutting through multiple layers, a sharp blade is essential to avoid fraying.

Preparing Your Fabric

Before you cut, it's crucial to prepare your sequin fabric. Sequins can shift and slide, so stabilize the fabric by spraying it with a temporary fabric adhesive or pinning it to a piece of tissue paper. This prevents the sequins from moving during cutting and sewing. When cutting, place the fabric with the sequin side down on the cutting mat to protect your blade and avoid damaging the sequins.

Mark your pattern pieces with chalk or a disappearing marker on the wrong side of the fabric. If you need to remove sequins from seam allowances, do this before sewing. Use a seam ripper to gently lift and cut the threads holding the sequins, then pull them off. This leaves a clean area for stitching and reduces bulk.

Sewing Techniques for Sequins

When sewing sequin fabric, use a longer stitch length (around 3 mm) to prevent the fabric from puckering. Sew slowly and guide the fabric gently to avoid breaking needles. If the needle hits a sequin and breaks, stop and replace it immediately. To avoid this, you can remove sequins along the seam line before sewing, or use a needle designed to deflect off hard surfaces.

For seams, consider using a French seam or a flat-felled seam to enclose raw edges, as sequin fabric can be scratchy against the skin. If you're making a bag, line it with a soft fabric like microsuede to protect the interior. Pressing sequin fabric is tricky—use a pressing cloth and low heat, or avoid ironing altogether by finger-pressing or using a seam roller.

Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing Sequins

1. Choose your sequin fabric: Select a sequin fabric appropriate for your project. Consider the base fabric, sequin size, and density. For beginners, choose a fabric with fewer sequins or a visible base for easier handling. Checkpoint: Does the fabric drape and feel right for your project?
2. Gather your tools: Assemble a sharp needle (90/14 or 100/16), polyester thread, a walking or Teflon foot, a rotary cutter, and a self-healing mat. Have a seam ripper on hand for removing sequins. Checkpoint: Test your needle on a scrap to ensure it doesn't break.
3. Prepare the fabric: Stabilize the sequin fabric with temporary adhesive or tissue paper. Mark your pattern on the wrong side. Remove sequins from seam allowances using a seam ripper. Checkpoint: Are seam allowances free of sequins to reduce bulk?
4. Cut carefully: Place the fabric sequin-side down on your cutting mat. Use a rotary cutter and ruler to cut out your pieces. Replace the blade if it becomes dull. Checkpoint: Cut edges should be clean without pulled sequins.
5. Sew with patience: Use a longer stitch length (3mm) and sew slowly. Guide the fabric gently. If a needle breaks, stop and replace it. Consider removing sequins along the seam line if needed. Checkpoint: Test a seam on a scrap to adjust tension and stitch length.
6. Finish seams and press: Enclose raw edges with a French seam or lining. Press with a pressing cloth on low heat or use a seam roller. Avoid direct ironing on sequins. Checkpoint: Your project should lie flat without puckering.

Products That Make Sequin Sewing Easier

• Sallie Tomato Rotary Cutter Combo: This rotary cutter has been designed and patented for cutting through thicker materials for bag making such as cork fabric, canvas, leather, vinyl, and more! The swivel safeguard makes this cutter convenient, safe and easy to operate. A sharp rotary cutter glides over sequins without snagging, making it easier to cut sequin fabric accurately and safely.
• Rustic Midnight Blue Cork Fabric: Our high-quality cork fabric consists of a thin layer of 100% natural cork bonded to a... (supplied facts truncated) For bag projects that combine sequins with sturdy materials, cork fabric provides a durable, non-fraying base that pairs well with sequin accents.

Sewing with sequins becomes manageable with the right preparation and tools. By choosing the appropriate sequin fabric, using a rotary cutter for clean cuts, and employing gentle sewing techniques, you can create beautiful, sparkly projects that last. Remember to test on scraps and take your time—sequins reward patience.